A trip to Thailand took us to the dropouts of Koh Samui and finally washed us to the beach of Haad Rin on Koh Phangan. Here we witnessed the madding frenzy under the drunken full moon. From Bangkok after a look into the abysses of the metropolis, we decided to finally ruin our karma and travel to Koh Samui. Anyway, we were happy to leave the wild bustle of the weird Khao San Road behind us and boarded a night bus.
On the way, the pretty modern bus gave up its spirit. Surprisingly, not even the ones in India have ever been so greasy. Karma. After we had continued our journey in a new bus, in the morning hours we were tormented with deafening films with Cold War rhetoric. These sounds formed an extreme contrast to the peaceful and misty tropical landscapes, from which karstic rocks stood out.
Finally, we reached the pier. The ferry was loaded with an insane number of tourists who go towards the three most popular islands in the Gulf of Thailand. Without interest in the load capacity more and more suitcases were thrown onto the boat.
Day 1 - Koh Samui
After arrival, we took it easy. We first sat down in a cafe on the pier. A short time later we boarded one of the pickups. As we reached the headland on intricate paths, we realized we were on a private beach of a felicitous resort with exorbitant prices. Rarely have we been so undesirable in our lives. In the lounge chairs, the fancy-dressed lounged with their lifestyle cocktails and enjoyed their carefree life.
With the huge backpacks on the back, indiscreet hippie clothes on the body and the stupid hats on the head, we came from another world. In order not to be duped by insidious security types, we decided to give up a provocative bath before their eyes. On the other hand, we could not do without our greasy grin. The dumb glances of the involuntary hosts were icy.
Only a lonely drunkard in the beach bar waved to us euphorically and greeted loudly. Given the obvious boredom, he was probably grateful for any change. Finally, we reached our beach. The contrast could hardly have been greater. If we had just stumbled through a realm of decadence, decayed wooden huts now formed the picture. After we passed the second post-apocalyptic huts ensemble.
I was fed up with the eternal search for beds. At first, I was not very enthusiastic but I relent. After all, our cabin was spacious and had comfortable beds. There was no electricity, which did not bother us. The starry sky in a place without light pollution is by no means to be despised. The chalet had a cozy terrace just above the sea, and our stretch of beach was completely deserted.
Since we were the sole guests, we now had our own private beach. After the turbulent days in Bangkok from then on, we were surrounded by heavenly tranquility. Only the sound of the sea drowned everything. Except swimming, reading, beach walks, and occasional rambles to avoid starvation, we just lazed. Occasionally we would play on the completely scratched pool table or gawk around in the quirky prayer hall.
On the main road, we passed countless bars that profited from the great gap between the first and third world. Gentle ladies made us their advances. When I saw the regular customers, I spontaneously wanted to puke. Most were the greasy guy with huge beer bellies. We were also very disturbed when we realized why in most aquariums fish with oversized heads were swimming. They were fed with special mega-head granules.
The trip to the supposedly most beautiful beach on the island was a disappointment. Even the wonderful palm trees made it hard to realize that this was an island that lay in Thailand and had been a little paradise before the mass immigration of emigrants and the onset of tourist crowds. By now she had her own airport. Everything seemed so interchangeable.
We might as well have been in Antalya or on the Costa Brava when I looked at the resort's clientele, souvenirs, culinary offerings, pop music, and lifestyle. We walked over the entire beach section, without stopping anywhere. Nothing stopped us. Finally, we got lost in a spacious tourist ghetto. Due to the decadence that was presented, I was struck by a burst of spontaneous hopelessness for the future of our species. There is pure excessiveness. So it was a blessing to return to our beach hotel, where we finally said good night.
Day 2 - Koh Phangan
We decided to celebrate the infamous full moon party on the neighboring island of Koh Phangan. With a proud number of other lucky knights, we drove with the setting sun on a speedboat to Koh Phangan. As we glided across the sea, the last rays of the sun reflected in the waves. When the inviting silhouette of the forested neighboring island appeared, we were a little euphoric. This quickly disappeared after arrival.
We knew that the party had become a hip event. To get to the Hat Rin beach, we had to pass the narrow streets of a moderately welcoming place, where pretty much every imaginable souvenir was on offer. Especially clothes, accessories, luminous colors, and tattoos waited for their new owners. All stores in Haad Rin sell clothes in neon colors.
Finally, I am here at the Full Moon Party in Koh Phangan! The air is burning. Everyone is waiting for the moment of the first beat to sound from the huge walls of boxes. It's the biggest beach party in the world and the wildest. Already in the week before the party, there are daily pre-parties. Only those who shine in the dark like plutonium are seen here.
Many partygoers were in a frenzy with luminous tattoos and body colors, as if they flew directly from Mars. In addition, huge buffets were opened with all imaginable dishes. The fish variations ranged up to the baby shark. They had probably fished the whole sea around the island. Electro and house music echoes from all stores. The island is dominated by this music and a little Reggae.
In addition, the bucket culture had moved in. There is whiskey, vodka, and gin until you drop. Fortunately, we had strengthened ourselves on the way there with energy drinks. Otherwise, we would have been even more turned off. It would take us 12 hours to see the activity or become part of it. There was not much going on yet. It is good to get a picture of the whole location. Since we found no place where we wanted to settle permanently, we just moved through the area.
From about 6 pm the beach fills slowly with fireflies in a party mood. We are still on the beach sunning ourselves as Bob Marley in the background. Then there is 1-minute silence, as the heads turn towards DJ stages. And then the first beat sounds out of the huge pit wall. It is 10 times louder than the chilly reggae sounds throughout the day. It is so loud that we cannot understand our own words anymore.
The bass goes deep into the heart. Immediately the first ones get up, roll up their towel and start to dance. It starts. For us, it is too early. We slept no night for more than 3 hours. It is time to go to the bungalow to prepare. We start at 10 pm. When we return, we can hardly see a beach anymore. There is only a sea of minds and bright colors.
The first victims are already motionless on the side of the road or roll completely in the sand. Right at the beginning, we see a girl trying to squeeze her back in the sand. She rolls over, rolls her eyes, and bounces her head around her onlookers. Any attempt to get them going is useless. Through loud roar and waving, the bucket sellers try to call the revelers to themselves.
There are no limits to creativity. There are light chains to small accessories to free hugs, to gain a small competitive advantage over rivals in a row. The buckets are extremely strong. The music is absolutely amazing! We celebrate hilariously. Strangers are in the arms. Some have let Hug me in the chest, but also Kiss me and other words are often read. The people are in a good mood.
Whenever I turn aside while I'm dancing and look at someone, my hands go up immediately, we clap and dance on. I cannot believe what's going on here. We are happy to be here and can not get that damn grin off our faces. Two Thais carry a long prepared rope to the end of the beach. They light it and the crowd cheers. Immediately a circle forms. The Thais swing the rope and the first brave ones venture into the middle. The crowd cheers.
In some places, the locals show their skills with the burning rod. Some guys are extremely proficient at this and deliver an impressive show. Then a burning rope is stretched to the circle. The women have the limbo quite clearly under control. From a certain depth on, the boys are more like an epileptic disorder. A huge foam cannon blows off tons of foam on the sandy beach.
The ground under our feet softens until we sink more than ankle deep. A girl is pulled out of the foam because she did not come back up and spent some time on the ground. The time lasts forever. We have no sense of time anymore. It's only 2 o'clock when we think we're celebrating half an eternity. It did not suit us here anyway. The party seemed superficial to have a certain dichotomy.
One part was populated by hippies and Goa freaks, who mainly thought of psychedelic mushrooms. There is the other of aggressive, crazed types. Apparently, the combination did not work out for many. After all, we were not with a Satanist sect. I had the impression that the party was attracting too many young people whose duties included passing their travel on a shoestring here.
As usual, after taking psychedelic drugs, I needed a bit to find the right path. So I searched for the (only in relative) quietest place on the beach and first watched the scenery. Wildly painted people walked by. They wore oversized glasses and strange headgear. Some had turned into tigers. Others were probably on the way to a worship of the Gothic disciples.
There were hippies who had flown in directly from the 60s, and some had fallen into the paint pot so uncontrollably that any speculation about their origin had to be meaningless. The mushrooms reinforced these impressions. Fascinated, we observed the rock, which was illuminated at the end of the beach like a spaceship. The monkeys were not missing.
A stranger came running and made friends with me in a split second. The highlight of this high-speed friendship was the ritual delivery of a glowing yellow neon collar, which I solemnly accepted. Obviously, this gesture filled me with euphoria and sheer joy. The two of us had found each other, and soon afterward alienated again forever.
I laughed at the bizarre and strangely touching scene. What was reflected in it, would have to be discussed in a separate novel, which unfortunately would never be written. After feeling a bit calmer, I decided to take a walk across the beach. Once on the move, my restlessness turned into a euphoric feeling. It did not bother me to have all those crazy-looking people around me. On the contrary, I felt a sense of belonging.
So I strolled the whole beach along. In the case of the Satanists, the music became too intense for me as her vibe was stifling. The extremely wild form in which some danced seemed to me almost a hostile act. I turned around. By now I was in a fantastic mood. I felt a deep peace in me. Dancing, I slipped through the crowd. I just enjoyed being here, listening to the music and watching the crowd.
I see a Croat. When I met him for the first time that evening, he was in a state of boundless euphoria. He was so crammed with drugs that it was almost physically painful to look at him. He wanted to drink incessantly and told grumpy things about his drug excesses with a well-known German DJ and his crew. He had rented a bungalow right on the beach and was surrounded by a number of beauties.
In the meantime, I limited myself to short trips to explore the bars on the rock and had more and more of the hustle and bustle. The experiences of this full moon night made me think. In addition to the bright faces that told entire novels of love, fulfillment and deep happiness, I read in others the expression of disillusionment, the disappointment to the bare despair.
I took refuge in philosophical thoughts. What were the motives that we ended up here? Basically, it was about the same longing that had already lured the hippies on the move. It was the search for Love, Peace, and Harmony. But the dream of Woodstock had degenerated. The one party has not existed for a long time. Individualism had become a curse. Different subcultures competed at different parts of the beach. The American dream had become the competition of all against all. The mantra one world - one love did not make you a better person. It had become hollow.
Day 3 - Half Moon Party
At some point, the sun rises, right on Hat Rin Beach. The crowd cheers and turns to the horizon to greet the day and to dance in the sun. At the hopelessly overcrowded pier, we had to spend an hour among upper-class freaks, while the morning sun blinded us. Sometime around noon, I'm on my way to bed. Everywhere on the beach there are party corpses in between, fortunately not, in the truest sense of the word.
I must admit, this was the best party of my life! The atmosphere is gigantic and comparable to nothing experienced so far. The fact that one does not master certain things lies in the nature of things. With a little caution and common sense, much can be avoided, but not everything. A certain amount of uncontrollability resonates. But no risk no fun! To be honest, a lot is dramatized, even here by me through this report. I stay for now because the Half Moon Party is in the house in the jungle of Koh Phangan.