Travel through Beaches & Rave Parties of Goa

After much weighing the way to get to Goa, we decided that it was best to take an Air India flight from Jaipur. That meant doing a 4-hour stopover in New Delhi and a stop without getting off the plane in Bombay. Come on, all day in planes and airports. A lot of people told us not to move out of the airport. There is not much to do. We listened and did not leave the airport.

They have everything spotlessly clean and there are lounge chairs to sleep on if you have many hours ahead. We ate a "Mcdonald's Chicken Maharaja Mac" and we took two hours of nap. We arrived in Goa at night, with many expectations and eager to finally see the beach, but the next morning we got a little disappointment.


We chose to go to the beaches of South Goa, which they say are very calm and beautiful. The first thing we did when getting off the plane was to find someone to share a taxi, like good backpackers we are already, and we found a couple of Israelis. They were majestic and super talkative. They told us how much they like India, that they have come four times, that we can not leave without knowing Hampi and that because they are from Israel, everything is cheaper. They also told us about the situation in their country. We hallucinated when they told us about their experience in the army (both men and women have to spend a few years necessarily in it).

Taxi fares in Goa are already fixed by the government. We paid 1700 rupees between the four for about 60 kilometers. We arrived at Agonda beach very late, just to sleep in a very average guest house that we had picked up by booking. It was right in front of the town church. The next day we woke up with some great views.

The beach of 2km of white sand is located in a large cove. It is semi-virgin and is surrounded by lush tropical vegetation and palm trees. It is twice as long as Palolem and with half of bungalows and tourists. The town is a street parallel to the beach with low houses, a large Catholic church, a few shops and a couple of internet sites. It is an idyllic and quiet place, where there are no sellers harassing. Early in the morning, around 7:30 am, you can see dolphins from the shore of the beach that come in search of tasty fish.

Goa was a Portuguese colony from the 15th to the 19th century. At that time the inhabitants had to convert to Catholicism or leave the colony. The group of churches and convents of Goa was declared a world heritage site in 1986.

The church of Agonda is beautiful and the beach is very good, the problem was that it was all closed, covered with blue tarps and under construction. It was sad to see him. This zone of coast begins its apogee in October and lasts until May when the monsoon begins.

During this period everything remains closed and the rains destroy most of the bungalows, so in summer the locals are dedicated to rebuilding everything again. We arrived just at the end of the monsoon and although it was a scandalous sun, the tourist season had not yet begun. There were hardly any accommodation and food options, so we took a tuk-tuk and went to the next beach.

We visited Cabo da Rama, an old Portuguese fortress of which only a few ruined walls remain, but with beautiful views. We cross the mangroves of the Sal River in Betul, a fishing village, and we reach the beach of Varca. From Mobor to Colva, there is a virgin beach more than 10 km long, with a fine white sand that at low tide is hard and is ideal to travel by bicycle or on horseback. On this extensive beach, in the areas of Mobor, Cavelossim, Carmona, Fatrade, and Varca. There are some luxury resorts scattered where are mainly Russian and Eastern European tourists.

Finally, we were in Benaulim, a quiet beach with some bamboo huts and few people. Colva was very crowded with people, full of motor boats for excursions and vendors offering all kinds of water activities. It is very focused on local tourism that arrives here from the city of Margao, which is only 6 km away. The next two days, we dedicate them to lie on the beach of Agonda without practically doing anything.


This beach is reputed to be the best in Goa. As it receives more visitors, it has a greater offer of hotels and restaurants although we are not in high season. We went walking along the beach looking for accommodation and try to get rid of a lot of commission agents. When they saw us with backpacks, they approached us offering everything (hotel, taxi, boat). They are a real pain!

As we arrived, the first thing we did was take a bath in the sea, which we were looking forward to. The water of Goa is not crystal clear and it is not a place to snorkel, dive, but the beaches are very long and full of palm trees. Of course, the water is like a broth. The good thing about coming in September is that there is nobody and you are practically alone with the cows and crabs that leave the sand full of balls.

Palolem is a great idyllic cove with white sand flanked by palm trees, quite nice where you have everything. The main street is lively with restaurants and clothing and jewelry stores. There are many tourists (backpackers), but it is not cramped. At night it is very quiet, it is not a busy place. In Chaudi-Canacona, near Palolem, there are several tailors where they make custom-made clothes.

Here we spent two days resting and eating good fish. That first day we decided to treat ourselves and take a good hotel. We deserved it after so much travel from one place to another. Prices are expensive compared to other places in India, but being in paradise comes at a price. The chosen one was an inn, with a good room for Rs. 2500 and what we liked the most was the swimming pool.

In the evening we had dinner in the guest house. It was the best "thali" that we have eaten so far. This is true both in Nepal and in India. It's a menu that you put in a kind of metallic school dining room tray divided into apartments. It would be nice to put a photo but we did not remember to do it. This menu was a good choice for rich and cheap dinner. It cost about 200 rupees and carries the vegetable or chicken curry, chapati (bread), rice, vegetable salad, lentils or beans, raita (yogurt sauce and a dessert.


The next day we woke up and we changed accommodation to a much cheaper one. It was all very new and clean. We sleep for 600 rupees in a huge room with terrace. It is located on the main street of Palolem where there is a little more wine, with many shops and restaurants. There we rented bikes for 150 rupees each and we went south to see Patnem beach.

This beach is really deserted. At least in this era. For not having there are no cows. It is not as pretty as Palolem but not being so collected, the water is cooler and there are more waves. We were enjoying the feeling of having a beach for ourselves and we had a great time remembering the gymnastics classes at the school. In addition, the road there was very pleasant among palm trees, cows, and local businesses.

In the afternoon we returned to Palolem to eat something on a terrace on the beach and watch the sunset. Instead of asking for an Ibiza gin and tonic, you can have a great chicken korma for 250 rupees. In a day, many more tourists had suddenly appeared and there was more atmosphere.

At night in Palolem people gather on the beach to have a few beers in the sand. The firecrackers are here too. The local 650ml beer costs 70 rupees. To give you an idea, one of the same sizes in Nepal cost more than 200 rupees. We aim to do the same as others under the light of the moon. The truth is that it was luxurious because the temperature was perfect and there were no mosquitoes.

And 100 meters from the beach, two trucks, one with a giant figure of Ganesh and another with speakers from which came a type of Bollywood music. Locals and gurus gave everything dancing in honor of the elephant god. It was a mix of village parties, the pride floats and a step of Holy Week.

The last day we move across the Palolem beach as much as possible. The more time we spend in it, the more we like it. We stayed all the time in the water catching waves, but without a board. We did not see any place to rent.

Goa has seemed like a good destination to rest a little after making the route to the north, which is crazy. But it does not have much more than beaches, palm trees, and cheap beer. To see that it is flat, but for us, who are of restless spirit, it was enough to be three days.

The last night we took a bus bed to throw ourselves back on the road. We still had to visit one of the places we most wanted to see in India.
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